Suzy Guese

Traveling with a redheaded temperament

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The Ideon Cave on Crete Wishes You Were Here

March 21, 2014 By Suzy

Some words are never lost in translation. As we arrived to the small town of Zaros on the Greek island of Crete, I quickly learned “coffee” is one of those words. Down the narrowest of alleys and past plenty of Cretan men’s stares, we parked in front of our hotel for the night. The night before was spent sleeplessly worrying about the bed bug sighting. We departed Rethymno faster than we arrived and headed for the hills of Crete to hole up in essentially the next closest thing to grandma’s house. Walking through the threshold, we were greeted by Katerina and her Greek. She chatted and chatted as we nodded and nodded. We suspected our room key was coming after all of our confused nodding. Instead, she uttered a word I could at last recognize, “Kafés?”

Coffee with Katerina

Even buried in the mountains of Crete speaking to possibly the last person on Earth to not know a single word of English, we broke language barriers over coffee. With empty cups, Katerina appeared again, this time moseying over to a cluttered desk. Rather than asking for our money, she hands over the key to her kingdom, a key that I imagine opens a pretty impressive door.

The key to Katerina's Kingdom

We quickly discover that much of this area, like the key that opens our room, is trapped back in time. Zaros cements itself in the foothills of Mt. Psiloritis, Crete’s highest mountain at 2,456 meters. Just 46 kilometers from Herkalion, the rustic mountain village leaves little to see and do. Famous for its natural spring water, Zaros is ever-present all over Crete. Its water is what lured me here, just as it did for the Minoans and Romans.

Lake in Zaros

After researching Zaros’ nearby attractions, we begin our search for none other than Zeus’ birthplace. As one would expect, the father of the gods’ beginnings is not the easiest to find. The road narrows and narrows until it is not a road at all but a mere path that we question our rental car should be traveling. We pass by shepherds who look at us in wonder as they wave, almost as to say, “Good luck.” A fork in the road presents the option to go down two paths that don’t seem car-worthy. A tiny rock with a faded red arrow pointing right is the only indication we might be on the right track to Zeus.

Mountains of Crete

With our stomachs leaping down the cliff and plenty of nail biting, the road at last turns to pavement and we see a sign for the Ideon Cave. Located in the Nida Plateau, the cave has acted as a pilgrimage site since antiquity when it was believed to be the site of Zeus’ birth. Relics from the cave have been unearthed to prove what the ancients thought of this otherwise inconsequential opening in the Earth. Today, gold jewelry and a bronze shield from the Ideon Cave can be seen at the Heraklion Archaeological Museum. I head down into the darkness with a little prodding from Zeus, for an opening such as this is beyond intimidating.

Ideon Cave

Dark and not particularly descript, I try to imagine those worshipping here beginning in the late fourth millennium B.C. A hole in the ground in the middle of what feels like the most isolated place on Crete seems like the appropriate space for the god of all gods in Greek mythology to exist.

Inside the Ideon Cave

And on this hot September day, the cool from the cave does in fact seem miraculous, mysterious and mythical. I realize it is not a coincidence that after the big bad bed bugs of the city, we holed up in two caves in Crete, the one presided over by the legendary Katerina and the one watched over by the mythical Zeus.

Ideon Cave 1

Have you been the Ideon Cave on the island of Crete?

Filed Under: Greece, Take Me Away To... Tagged With: Crete, Greece, take me away to

Comments

  1. Lauren Meshkin @BonVoyageLauren says

    March 21, 2014 at 2:12 PM

    Sounds like an adventure! I’d love to go to Greece. Thanks for sharing.

    Happy travels 🙂

    • Suzy Guese says

      April 2, 2014 at 7:10 AM

      Oh it was quite the adventure!

  2. oriste says

    March 23, 2014 at 12:21 AM

    I enjoyed reading that, you seem to be one of those few that can capture the essence of Crete in words. Keep going.

    • Suzy Guese says

      April 2, 2014 at 7:10 AM

      Thank you! Crete is certainly hard to pinpoint at times but nonetheless a fascinating place.

  3. The Guy says

    March 25, 2014 at 6:12 AM

    Fascinating cave and wonderful pictures. Indeed coffee is a uniting force all around the world irrespective of language 🙂

    Looks like you had some great highlights, bed bugs aside.

    • Suzy Guese says

      April 2, 2014 at 7:12 AM

      Yes, minus the bed bugs, my time in Greece was exceptional. Thanks for stopping by as always!

  4. Katri N says

    May 24, 2014 at 1:31 PM

    Hello, nice photos and explication, thanks! Where did You find information when the cave is open? In many pages is said to be under excavations and closed for tourists..

About Suzy Guese

After a childhood of keeping road trips interesting around the U.S, stints in Western Europe as an angsty teen and a study abroad year in Italy in college, I decided to make traveling and writing my way of living. My travels are laced with hints of a redheaded temperament, proof that my hair color is indeed natural. SuzyGuese.com is where I solve packing predicaments, blurt out my travel secrets, rant about nomad injustices and share where the road takes me in hopes that it might take you there too.

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