It is so quiet you could hear my fork drop on the plate ever so lightly, that is, if I ever put it down. My waiter makes certain to place my Erdäpfel-Vogerlsalat, a vinegary potato salad with lamb’s lettuce, down in such a manner that I wouldn’t ever have to give my fork a rest. My dining companion tells me this is customary in Germany and Austria to place your fork in your left hand and your knife in your right at all times. Almost like dinner gloves, you wear these tools until the plate is clean. My plate tonight is a golden dream, a Viennese specialty, Wiener Schnitzel.
The traditional Wiener Schnitzel, by Austrian law no less, must be prepared with veal. Other schnitzel varieties exist including pork and chicken, but the real deal can only be veal. A veal cutlet is pounded thin and then breaded and fried until golden. Topped with a lemon wedge for squeezing over the schnitzel, this is Vienna’s dish, or so they say. The history of Wiener Schnitzel is somewhat debated. Some say it came from today’s northern Italy and became popular during the Habsburg’s rule. Others claim Vienna’s creation is merely the work of the first civilizations. Regardless, it’s all Wiener Schnitzel to me in Vienna.
- Pretty much I how I looked on my search for Schnitzel
The first time I tried schnitzel, I didn’t order it myself. I was young and naive, believing anything called “schnitzel” must be disgusting. My Dad ordered it in Germany and let me have a taste. That taste turned into cleaning his plate and a lifelong love affair with schnitzel. And being in the home of Wiener Schnitzel, literally translating Viennese schnitzel, I naturally had to try all types, from the overly touristy to the corner, quiet restaurant.
The Touristy and Trusted: Figlmüller
When you boast of having Vienna’s “most famous schnitzel”, you certainly don’t have much room to lie. I ventured out into the snow of Vienna for this iconic schnitzel. Began by Johann Figlmüller and in its fourth generation, this schnitzel homeland boasts its own version of schnitzel, Schnitzel á la Figlmüller. Claiming to be bigger, thinner and crispier than all of the other schnitzels in the land, it is no wonder you need a reservation four days in advance to get into the original cellar. Figlmüller still accommodates the overflow with another restaurant just around the corner, serving up much of the same, schnitzel included.
My schnitzel rating for this one was much higher than expected. As I heard the loud clamor of English and plenty of camera flashes and comments like, “Ohhh, schnitzel”, I wasn’t expecting much. When my grand, 34 centimeter in diameter schnitzel arrived, I could see why this was deemed one of the best in Vienna. Figlmüller uses the tenderloin for a better tasting schnitzel and less puffy texture when frying.
The Second Place Schnitzel Winner
The Medieval Atmosphere: Zwölf Apostelkeller
While not known for its Wiener Schnitzel, the next night I went underground for my schnitzel search to Zwölf Apostelkeller, otherwise the Twelve Apostle’s Cellar. Mentioned in city documents in 1339 but with stonework from 1100, the schnitzel here was much more puffy and greasy than Figlmüller.
The Third Place Schnitzel
However it was the setting, the medieval cellar and green candles dripping that made the meal taste truly from an original Viennese kitchen. Tavern musicians circle the tables only furthering the tone. I might have come to Zwölf Apostelkeller for the schnitzel, but it was the atmosphere that seemed to make the meal.
The Corner, Quiet Restaurant: Restauration Zur Goldenen Glocke
Tired and freezing cold, I stumbled upon Restauration Zur Goldenen Glocke merely by accident. It was the closest place to my hotel with Wiener Schnitzel on the menu. With no diners in sight, I sat down to that deafening silence complimented only by the quiet German of a waiter in a complete tux.
Since 1886 in Vienna, the restaurant focuses on comprising dishes with ingredients from local suppliers and farmers. Zur Goldenen Glocke serves classic Viennese cuisine, including Wiener Schnitzel. It was the sort of place where the chef comes out to peek over your table so subtly, just to make sure you are enjoying your meal. The quality of veal was apparent, along with the breading. Not greasy or overly puffy, this Wiener Schnitzel and its atmosphere were just right.
The Schnitzel Winner
If you find yourself in Vienna, I encourage you to try these options and any others you may find. However, after such careful research, I would have to say it was the corner restaurant, the one I didn’t know or plan on that served up the best Wiener Schnitzel, from atmosphere to taste. In search of schnitzel in Vienna, it’s a tough job but someone has to do it.
Have you tried Wiener Schnitzel in Vienna?
You’re making me hungry with these pictures. And the medieval cellar looks incredible. I didn’t try Weiner Schnitzel when I was in Vienna, but only because I was on a broke college student’s budget of about 8-10 euros a day for food when I visited. However, I had a German friend visit me this last summer and she insisted that we cook a real German meal. We made pork schnitzels and it was probably the most delicious thing I’ve ever cooked in my own kitchen, although I’ll have to give her most of the credit for that.
Hey Suzy
I think I would have to rate schnitzels as my favourite food, so I’m loving this post, although it is making me hungry at the moment.
Cant wait to get to Vienna and try some of these delicious looking schnitzels.
Yummy! I love when they serve Schnitzel that’s as big as the plate itself 🙂
I love Wiener Schnitzel like no other, too! It’s like a chicken fried steak, but better. There just happens to be a German restaurant less than a mile from my house. Looks like I know what I’m having for lunch.
I too love schnitzel and was surprised the Figlmueller ones are so good. Love that place!
I have indeed tried Wiener Schnitzel in Wien. It was many years ago, but it is a good memory. I like the nice soft veal, or even turkey, better than pork.
There is a dish called Cottletta Milanese that is pretty similar from Milan. A breaded cutlet with lemon on top. So I can well believe the story of it coming up from Italy.
We eat Schnitzel several times a week here. One of my favorite places is a schnitzel restaurant in an old wine celler. I have chicken schnitzels in the fridge now. As your pictures so, it is almost always served with fries. Germans use a version of the French word for fries, Pommes. So you often see menus or boards talking about Schnitzel-Pommes, or shortened to Schni-po.
Zwölf Apostelkeller looks so cute, a nice and cosy refuge from the snow too I’d imagine:)
Shame you missed 7sternbräu. Although pork, it has been my favorite in Vienna for schnitzel for 10 years and I have been to many if them including Figlmüller which is a tourist trap! Never pay more than €8 or 9.
I’ll add it to my list next time I am in Vienna. I can never get enough schnitzel. I had to go to Figlmüller to see for myself. It is touristy, but when you claim to have the best, every schnitzel connoisseur must have a taste before judgment.
Thanks for the post! I’m going there this weekend and was just thinking about snitzel so I’m glad that I came across this. Will have to try these places out!
I had schnitzel for dinner last night in Vienna – lucky me! Having lived here for about 5 years, I have my own list of favorites as love for schnitzel runs deep in my family. Here they are, for posterity:
1. Schloss Concordia – Some say this is the best in town, myself included. Many interesting choices of meat, depending on the time of year. Always veal, sometimes deer, goose, etc. The best salad trio I have had, ever. Dark and candlelit. To get there, take Tram 71 from Schwartzenbergplatz direction Kaiserebersdorf and get off at Zentralfriedhof Tor 1. It is right across the street.
2. Huth Gastwirtschaft – This restaurant in the 1st has consistently served my favorite schnitzel. If you are willing to go a bit further, get the Cordon Bleu version, which is stuffed with cheese and ham. Very good salad as well. Schellinggasse 5, so easy to get to from just about anywhere.
Happy Eating.
am heading to vienna in July and was searching for the best place to have a schnitzel and i chanced upon your blog! really comprehensive post! which is your favourite though? 🙂
Thank you for this. I just googled schnitzel in Vienna and happily found this article. We head to Vienna tomorrow and we’ll be going Schnitzel happy. 🙂 Might try the corner place before Figlmuller.