I wonder what Thomas Wolfe really thought of Asheville, North Carolina. A man who would never live down penning the line, “You can’t go home again,” did have a home in Asheville and his remains are still here. George Vanderbilt would disagree about this mountain town, ideally located in Blue Ridge and Great Smoky Mountain territory. Not only could he make a home in Asheville, but he could envision what would become the largest home in America, one he would go home to again and again. Something tells me, the two probably wouldn’t see eye to eye, or home to home.
View from the Biltmore Estate, the largest residence in America
Arriving in Asheville just as the sun has completely exited the sky’s scene, I do as the locals appear to be doing on this Saturday evening, eat and drink. Asheville features a number of local breweries and trendy eateries. I feast on a Carolina pork sandwich complete with the local drink of choice at one of Asheville’s many outdoor cafes. A loud group sits behind me, forever encroaching on my space. At last, they truly show no mercy, pushing my table and chairs to their limits in order to fit in more friends, more acquaintances. Lucky for me, I have a full glass to keep the annoyances at bay.
Post dinner, Asheville calls for you to take to your feet so that the architecture and snaking streets are fully appreciated. And down those streets is a funky side you can’t help but find photograph opportunity. The Flat Iron sculpture sits on Wall Street across from the Flat Iron building, Asheville’s own try at imitating New York City. Local shops and businesses gather here, but it is the giant iron you truly can’t miss.
Just getting some ironing done while in Asheville
The next day, I see Asheville in the light. With so many facets to this small town, it is hard to believe Asheville also houses one of the oldest ballparks in the country. Opened in 1924, to round out my Colorado Rockies baseball super fan status, I visit McCormick Field, home to the Rockies minor league team, the Asheville Tourists. Like a classic tourist, the field is closed for the season so I just snap a shot of its gates, gates Babe Ruth cruised through. The Babe hit a few out of this ballpark, enough to be deemed Babe Ruth’s bellyache heard round the world.
However, the showpiece, the reason Asheville lurks on the map, is the massive Biltmore Estate. Completed in 1895, the Biltmore Estate was George Vanderbilt’s idea of a country cottage. The 250-room French chateau style house is just the beginning.
The entrance fee to the Biltmore, for a one-time visitor like myself, is hard to define as anything but expensive. $55 and several slow moving white van rides later, I reach the Biltmore Estate. While you can’t take photographs inside, the house has made appearances in the films Tap Roots, The Swan and Richie Rich. The indoor pool and bowling alley set this country home apart from the rest. An outdoor patio allows the hams of the world to pose, pretending to be the owner of this enormity.
The gardens are just more icing on this monster of a cake. The Biltmore Estate itself spans 175,000 square feet, composed largely of its gardens and grounds. The acres of beautiful gardens were the work of Frederick Law Olmsted of Central Park fame.
You could spend all day here, getting your $55 worth at the winery on site, gift shops, restaurants and even hotel. However, time is fleeting for the traveler on the road. I stop to smell Asheville’s roses only for a day. Giant irons, hoppy beers, Babe Ruth bellyaches and a residence that makes anyone in America feel like they don’t have enough space, Asheville is an oddity you can’t quite deny.
Have you ever been to Asheville?
Awesome! I love Asheville. I hope to have a second home there one day!
Such a trip barely scratches the surface… Asheville is so so so much more than just the Biltmore. You must come back and do it justice!!
Great photos! We went to Asheville last month for 24 hours and although it was way too little time for this gorgeous city, we are glad that we went! We loved the scenery around Asheville, and the town itself had a great vibe. We loved all the independent little stores & restaurants and their focus on ‘buying local’ and using local ingredients for the restaurants. We had to skip the Biltmore Estate because we ran out of time but Biltmore village was cute, too.
I loved ashville. I mostly went for the hiking as you can imagine, nestled in the mountains there are tons of outdoor fun exploration opportunities. Once we were there however we couldn’t help but to be intrigued by the happening downtown. The first thing that got our attention was a drum circle situated middle down town in a small park. I guess they do this every Friday night weather permitting. There were lots of musicians playing outside along the streets too. Anyway, even after long days playing in the mountains we gathered enough energy to hike the streets of asheville at night and enjoyed ever moment of it.
Great photos Suzy! Echoing the comment above, one day is not nearly enough time to “experience” Asheville. My wife and I moved to Asheville 6 years ago and nearly every time we go out, we happen upon a new, eclectic, and delightful experience. We are in constant awe of our hip mountain town! (we’ve lived in Boston, NYC, LA, San Francisco, and San Diego and thought they were cool……before)
Next time you visit, you need to visit the River Arts district where over 100 artists work in a variety of reclaimed warehouse studios and delicious new eateries, theaters and breweries have opened to serve artists, locals, and visitors alike. West Asheville is worth a trip (go by bike!) to see how this neighborhood has transformed into a nearly self-sufficient community of restaurants, markets, bars, record shops and stores. The community vibe of West Asheville is genuine and infectious.
My list could go on and on, but as a local, we know how important the Biltmore was (emphasis on was!) to putting Asheville on the map. But I can truly say that Asheville, and it’s bohemian “any way you like it” ideology has surpassed the Biltmore Estate and all its glory.
Beautiful photos, but I agree with Katie. The Biltmore just scratches the surface of what Asheville has to offer, and it’s been photographed like a billion times. Downtown Asheville is amazing. The River Arts District is a gem. The list goes on and on. It really does take more than 24 hours to see a small percentage of that beautiful city. But your photos are very nice. Please post more. 🙂
Asheville is a fantastic city, and like you said, a great place to eat and drink. The hiking and cycling are also outstanding. I’ve never been to the Biltmore, so I’m glad you covered that. Next time spend more than 24 hours there! It’s worth it.
The more I read your blog, the more I want to visit the U S of A. Asheville looks beautiful. I can tell from your words & pictures why someone would want to live there.
A good friend of mine leaves in Asheville, and now I want to go visit her more than ever!
Nice work Suzy.
I sure have! Being from South Carolina, I’ve made a couple of trips there – the last in 2007 during Christmas. It’s a beautiful mountain town. So glad you had the chance to go to the Biltmore House. I have some photos of it during Christmas and would love to go back again!
By the way – where are the posts on South Carolina? 🙂
We spent a weekend there this spring; fell so in love with the city and it’s residents that we honestly considered leaving the road and moving there. Nothing else like it.
Abigail
Great job on your Asheville trip, which I am just now reading! My family has been summering in Montreat, NC since 1906, so Asheville is just around the corner and very familiar. The Blue Ridge Parkway, Folk Art Center, Mount Mitchell and the Biltmore are all a must do. I hope you’ll come back!