“One, two, three, four,” I utter as I count the number of people hitting me on the Brooklyn Bridge. Before you get too scared, I am on the pedestrian walkway, high above the roaring traffic below. These little brushes with my fellow walkers aren’t so damaging to me physically but perhaps emotionally. I often hear the words “wonderful” and “pleasant” used to describe the journey across the Brooklyn Bridge. And as I met a teen face to face on the Brooklyn Bridge, one of those who at a crowded mall at the holidays lets oncoming pedestrian traffic move for them, we collided somewhere over the East River.
What no one tells you about the Brooklyn Bridge is that it can literally drive you mad, something I imagine remains eerily connected to its rather dark history. A white line divides the two sides of the pedestrian platform, one side for bikers and one for those on foot. And those little sections are divided themselves with giant arrows pointing where you should be on your side, depending on if you are coming into Manhattan or leaving it. And below all of this commotion are cars, trucks and vans gliding on by at speeds I don’t want to know from up here.
I am not a rule breaker. I stay inside the lines of the coloring book like the best of them. However I have my limits. On the Brooklyn Bridge, you must fight for your right to stay alive. I can see that teen I will later collide with up ahead. The whole group of four has now spanned the entire walk lane, hording over both sides of traffic. They are even overflowing into the bike lines. As bikes come whizzing past, a tourist could very well go down in this moment and I hold my resolve. I won’t become a statistic on this bridge. And with a boom and a teenage hairy eyeball, I stay on my lane and my side, all to survive this bridge.
My struggles on the Brooklyn Bridge are truly minor compared to those who built the connector between Manhattan and Brooklyn. Over a hundred workers were paralyzed while working on the bedrock 44 feet below. At least two dozen died in fires, explosions and collapses while building the Brooklyn Bridge. Even the own bridge’s creator, John Augustus Roebling never got to see his design come to fruition. Roebling died in a freak accident days before construction began. His son Washington would take over until he too would experience caisson disease due to working on the bedrock. His wife Emily would help communicate Roebling’s vision. She would also be the first to ride over the bridge when it opened on May 24, 1883.
I guess I had visions of the Brooklyn Bridge being a somewhat romantic experience. Coming from one land to another via an 1883 construction has a certain ring to it. It is also mere poetry to traverse a landmark that would in essence change New York forever. And yet, I can’t enjoy it completely. With each passing step, there is another group that takes over the walkway and the bike path. Luckily for the bikers they have bells to ring to get these saunters to move. I need a bell to keep sane.
The constant brushes with tourists and locals are nothing new. Just after the Brooklyn Bridge’s opening, a stampede occurred, killing 12 and injuring 35 people. Apparently some believed the bridge was collapsing so mass hysteria took place. In an effort to put minds at ease and avoid future catastrophe, circus promoter P.T Barnum brought 21 elephants across the bridge to show its strength.
I reach the halfway point and I stop, putting aside my impatience to take in the moment I had envisioned. Another world is just a half mile away. I imagine what Emily Roebling thought of her journey across the water. So much loss went into building the first steel suspension bridge in the world. I hypothesize it was a bittersweet journey for Emily, just as my trip across walking on water was today.
By the time I make it to the end of the Brooklyn Bridge, I collapse on a few benches provided. These seem cleverly placed for those who just went insane on the Brooklyn Bridge journey. I can handle a one mile walk, but not when with each step I could be taken out by a teen or a biker.
If you want to survive the Brooklyn Bridge, I recommend staying inside the lines, making the walk at less busy times of the day and pulling to the side to marvel at the view of Lower Manhattan to keep you grounded. I also think being annoyed by the crowds while crossing the Brooklyn Bridge is inextricably woven into its very design and construction. The struggles of those who gave their lives for a job or perhaps just to connect two worlds is felt with every near take down by a biker or brush with a teen on the wrong side of the line. Sometimes the passages we take to reach our destinations are not always how they are described. They are not always pretty, but at least they aren’t boring.
Have you ever crossed the Brooklyn Bridge? Did you find it to be a death trap or a pleasant stroll?
Kieron says
We crossed the Brooklyn Bridge around this time last year and can say that we actually enjoyed it a lot. Maybe we got lucky and the crowds weren’t that bad? Or maybe it was the awesome pizza we had just before the walk? Who knows…
Rory Alexander says
Sorry to hear about your experience of the Brooklyn Bridge. Perhaps it was a bad time of day. I thoroughly enjoyed my stroll across the Brooklyn Bridge in August this year but I did go at 8:00am so there were only the odd New Yorker cycling into town and few tourists. You can read about my experience here:
http://roryinamerica.wordpress.com/2012/08/20/welcome-to-brooklyn-ny/
Lindsey says
This was hilarious! I’ve heard the Brooklyn Bridge described many times, but never in quite as entertaining a way. I’m glad you didn’t go insane on your journey 😉
Noah says
I’ve crossed the Brooklyn Bridge and the Williamsburg Bridge. The former is more beautiful, but the latter leaves you at Peter Luger’s… some of the world’s best steak.
Shivya says
Ouch. That kind of reminded me of the Lakshman Jhoola in Rishikesh, in India – it is a suspended bridge across the Ganges, and to get from one side to another, you not only have to deal with people and bicycles, but cows, dogs, motorbikes, even luggage trolleys being pulled by hefty men!
The Guy says
Hi Suzy,
I crossed the bridge in 2008 and had a very similar experience. Like you I like to stick to the rules and wish everyone else did too!
It was manic when I was there, I turned back at half way. The fact it was scorching hot that day didn’t help. I remember one lady jogging across whilst walking/running her little dog. A few minutes later she was jogging back whilst carrying the dog! I suspect the dog had got as annoyed as we did!
Julika says
These pictures are breathtaking! Although it sounds like a quite struggle in your depiction, I would really love to cross Brooklyn Bridge someday 🙂
Elle of Solo Female Nomad says
I went to the Brooklyn Bridge a couple of years ago and loved it.Granted, it was busy, but the view more than made up for it!
Invisible Visible Man says
Suzy,
I ride over the Brooklyn Bridge twice a day by bike on my commute. I agree that it’s frustrating when it’s crowded. But it remains possibly the archetypal New York City site, as I suggest here: http://invisiblevisibleman.blogspot.com/2013/04/a-pain-to-use-but-joy-to-be-on-joys-of.html
All the best,
Invisible.
Vadim says
As a fellow traveller (side tracked by life) and Brooklyn native, your post reminded me of all the little things that drove me nuts about living in NYC (I live in Vancouver, B.C. now). When I was living in NYC I was too consumed in the rat race to consider how dumb and dangerous it is to combine pedestrians and cyclists on such a narrow path. Fortunately, for those brave urbanites I left behind, NYC seems to be changing for the better for cyclists, thanks to Janet Sadik Kahn. One of the reasons we moved to Vancouver was because of how easy it is to walk or get around town by bike. However, the Brooklyn Bridge walking path is like stepping onto the set of Road Warrior, considering how many tourists cross it and stop to take pictures. It should be designated for pedestrians only. The proper cycling path should be routed through the Williamsburg Bridge, which is right nearby and has a much better (safer) pathway for cyclists.